Embroidery

Embroidery is a traditional craft that has been practiced for centuries in various cultures around the world. It involves embellishing fabric with decorative stitching using threads, beads, sequins, and other materials. Embroidery has a rich history and holds cultural significance in many societies, often representing the artistic and creative expression of women.

Embroidery (Bharat), specifically in the region of Barmer, Rajasthan, has undergone significant changes due to historical events and the displacement of people. After the Indo-Pak War of 1971, around three lakh people, mostly from the Thar Parkar district, fled their villages in fear of persecution and hardships under the military dictatorship of Pakistan. They sought refuge in the Barmer and Jaisalmer districts of Rajasthan.

However, the hopes for a better future in India quickly eroded as they faced hostility and discrimination from the local population, as well as limited support from the Indian government. These war-displaced individuals, known as sharanarthis or refugees, were confined to relief camps and relied on meager rations provided by the Indian state. To survive in this challenging situation, the women from these camps adapted their traditional embroidery skills for market production.

Embroidery traditions in Thar Parkar were known as bharat, encompassing both embroidery and appliqué/patchwork techniques. These traditions had originated in the West, possibly influenced by the Persio-Arabian deserts. The craft was popular among lower castes like the Meghwals, Ravana Rajputs, Bhils, and Kolis. Embroidery pieces were personalized expressions of love and affection, often used as gifts and worn on special occasions. The designs and motifs carried symbolic meanings and were communicative in nature, telling stories or reflecting the artisan's connection with nature.

With the influx of war-displaced women into Barmer, the local handicraft market experienced a boom in demand for bharat products. Handicraft traders capitalized on this opportunity, offering meager wages to the women artisans for their exquisite work. The production process became hierarchical, with big merchants providing raw materials and middlemen overseeing production in various villages. This mass production for the handicraft market led to the alienation of artisans from their creations, transforming the personal and intimate nature of bharat into a commodity.

The expansion of the female labor force in the 1980s, driven by consecutive famines and limited employment opportunities, further impacted the commodification of embroidery. To meet the demand for cheaper products, the emphasis shifted from intricate embroidery to simpler patchwork techniques. Designs became more standardized, featuring motifs unrelated to the artisans' creative urges, and mass production became the norm.

The informal sector of the rural economy in Barmer became increasingly involved in the production and trade of handicrafts. Petty traders and organizers emerged within the Pak Oustee community, working with capital advances from larger traders. The production chains grew, involving multiple middlemen and hierarchical structures. This transformation marked a shift towards the "age of mechanical reproduction" for bharat traditions, with less emphasis on creativity and more on meeting market demands.

In conclusion, the embroidery traditions of Bharat, particularly in Barmer, Rajasthan, have undergone significant changes in response to historical events and displacement. The craft, once an intimate expression of love and cultural identity, has become a commodity in the handicraft market. The expansion of the female labor force and the need for cheaper products have influenced the techniques and designs used, leading to a shift from intricate embroidery to simpler patchwork. Despite these changes, embroidery continues to hold cultural significance and remains an important aspect of the craft heritage of the region.